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Section 5: Col d’Harriéta – St Etienne de Baigorry

We woke up feeling pain everywhere. I could barely move and Iwona wasn’t really in a better shape either. We decided to slow down and get only to St Etienne de Baigorry to rest and take a warm shower!


At 3 pm we were already on a campsite, which cost like 3€ per person. We took a shower. We washed our clothes in a real washing machine and not in a river. It felt so good. Our plans for the afternoon were to eat gâteau basque, drink coffee and beer.

Since St Etienne de Baigorry isn’t a big town, we went to a single restaurant/bar. When the waiter came to take our order, I asked for a café latte. And then it all started. Cause, he had never ever heard of a café latte and started making fun of me. I didn’t get what was so funny about it, but he told every single person who worked in that place that I was drinking café latte, and not café crème.

When we ordered our beers, he couldn’t skip such a chance to tease me even more. He asked if we would prefer “beer latte” or simply hops. It must have been his joke for the next few days.

St Etienne de Baigorry has shops, a pharmacy, gites, restaurants. There is a campsite 1km from the city center. You can always ask at the tourist office for directions. In the town, you can find a bus to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. 

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