Section 29: Mérens les Vals – Refuge Bésines

I had no network for few days. So in the morning, I spent some time talking with my mom and Iwona. I had to take a train and go to Ax-les-Thermes, to withdraw some money. In the city, I felt so lost, with all those people and cars. It was so noisy that I couldn’t wait to return on the trail. I didn’t want to go back to a real world. Not yet. I was definitely not ready for it. I was so grateful that I could get so far. That in this world, where everyone is chasing after money and career, and material possessions, there are still places like that, where you can escape this world. And walking alone definitely helps, even though, a good company is always a pleasure.

That night I was camping next to two Parisians that I met around the refuge Bésines. It was their first hike. They reminded me myself from last year. They kept boasting about how they would arrive at the end, how hard it was. They talked about the trail as if it was something to conquer. They talked about kilometers, descents and ascents, time. I learned how to savor every single minute of my time in the Pyrenees. I felt love and gratitude that the words cannot express towards the Pyrenees. I knew that I will come back there. The mountains gave me something that you cannot measure. They gave me myself. But in a better shape, mentally and physically.

I was living abroad for 6 years then, and I was just about to move to Hong Kong. I was thinking about the price that travelers pay in order to pursuit their dreams. We are never home, we miss all the family events, such as weddings, birthdays, and more. We are just never there. On the other hand, I love to be in a constant movement. I really like that feeling.


The refuge keeper told me to take the High Route, that the views were amazing and I should be able to hike it. It was so nice of him, however, I stuck to the GR10 trail. However, the idea of walking the High Route was born in my head. And one day, I will actually do it.

You can camp close to the refuge which costs like 5€. If you walk another 500m, you will find another spot. 

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