Section 19a: Luz St Sauveur – Lac d’Aubert

My days were full of adventures and new encounters. However, in the evening, I never had enough time to write everything down. I was planning on waking up early, however, I could not force myself to get up at 5:40 am. At the end, I left the campsite around 7:30 am. And it turned out to be a very good choice. The first part of the path led through a forest where even at 8 am was very dark. There was nobody. I passed by Sers and enjoyed the morning sun while heading down to Berèges. Since I hadn’t met anyone during few hours, when I saw a runner I rushed to him, just to say hello. Well, I explained the route to him and soon afterward, he was gone. In Berèges, people were looking at me as if I was homeless, or so.

Never trust families and old Spanish hikers. Every single time, I let myself follow someone and did not pay attention to the route, I ended up lost. Climbing till cabane d’Aygues Cluses went smoothly. However, later the hard part started. I was heading towards col de Madaméte, I came across some amazing lakes: lac de Coueyla Gran, lacs de Madaméte. When I arrived at the pass, I was exhausted. I knew that there was still a long way ahead before arriving close to lac d’Aubert where the camping is permitted. Even tired, I took my time to appreciate the lakes. In the Neouvielle Nature Reserve, the landscapes are simply amazing.

Close to the camping zone, I bumped into a guy. He said “Hello” and asked straightforward if I was going to camp here. I was tired and found it strange that the first thing he asked me was where I would be sleeping. Without thinking I answered that I might find some spot not far from the lake. Then he explained to me the rules “camping permitted only in a specific zone, from 7 pm till 9 am”. Ah, so I met a ranger. And a very good-looking one. Again! I guess, they all had to be models before.

When I arrived at the campsite, I still had to wait one hour to set up my tent. There were others already chilling out. We started talking and I was invited to join them for an apéritif. They were from Toulouse and came here to spend a night. They were French but had wandered in the world for some time. We had a very nice evening. A Spanish family set up their tents next to mine, and a father was snoring!


In Berèges there is a campsite La Ribère. In the town, you can find shops, a gite, and a bus stop. You can camp close to cabane d’Aygue Cluses. The lake Aubert is in the Neouvielle Nature Reserve. You cannot camp anywhere. There are two zones for camping. You can set your tent from 7 pm till 9 am. More information: here.

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